Feels great, stiffer and more solid feeling than the aluminum one I had, feels much better at faster speeds
Anybody have advice for getting fouls on and off? Tightest fit Ive ever had, really have to whack it with a rubber mallet to the point I’m concerned about the strength of the carbon
When I rode Cloud IX foils they would get super set in the socket after the session. An unweighted rubber mallet sucked to get it apart. I used a 2lbs weighted rubber mallet and that popped it apart quite well.
No clue about how tight is too tight for damaging carbon tho, I didn’t get one of these.
For my Axis fuse on the One Ocean mast I used normal candle wax and it worked very well, no idea how it will work with Code fuse and Ti though.
I know, using a rubber mallet sucks and it is just a bit too tight to whack it off with the palm of your hand.
The code interface design is an odd one. If you use genuine code gear, it is designed to fit perfectly in the taper fitting and bottom out on the flat bottom. If the tolerances are exactly perfect it will be snug but not too tight to get off. However, as soon as a little wear happens, it gets looser and looser, and that means the connection is not preloaded and not stiff. I designed this adapter specifically so it DOES NOT bottom out on the flat at the bottom of the pocket. This means it will always be able to be super tight and stiff no matter the tolerances and how much wear there is. Its a tradeoff, but this is the way I would want my gear, so that’s what I did.
Since the genuine Code interface is designed to bottom out on the flat at the bottom of the pocket, and you intentionally changed the design, how did you determine that the load that the new adapter puts into the tapered carbon walls is appropriate for the Code fuselage?
Mine is tight to where it’s a bit of work even with a mallet. Gonna try getting a weighted one and see if that helps
I guess just that it hasn’t caused an issue yet. not a foolproof method, that’s for sure. If anyone doesn’t like theirs, send it back, I have a list of people who didn’t get one
Hey guys, I haven’t been on this thread since August. I haven’t read all the posts after my August 18 post. I’ll catch up soon. I did receive my adapter. But I was talking to @Wouzel today and I guess there are some questions about fitment here in the thread. So I took the time to measure everything carefully. I made a video to show my findings. They are all positive findings BTW:
I will add, a Axis fuse is incredibly tight on the One Ocean mast… to where I can’t push it down all the way. Exactly as the adapter. So I do have to work on this mast foot a tad bit.
I would use Dupont Non-Stick Dry Film lubricant with Teflon. That is what most professionals use for deep tuttle fitments. Sailworks used to sell it.
If you can push it on as far as you got it then that little bit of candle wax will make it perfect and no need to sand. Sanding is always super last resort!
Tight is good 
I am sorry to ruin the party with candle wax. I don’t know anyone that uses it for tight connections. Where are you guys coming up with this. Never seen it in wind foiling, formula windsurfing. It’s not a good product to use. Prove me wrong.
Hey guys, it was definitely too tight, and it was the mast. @Jacko I’m not complaining. I think that’s a good thing. I’d rather sand than add material. And I’ve had to add material to both Code and Axis masts before.
An Axis fuse wouldn’t go in there, nor would the adapter. Sanding was needed.
I sanded it. But when I say I sanded it, I mean I carefully touched it up with 220 - 600 - 800 grit. Mainly at the two ends. That’s where the fuse was really leaving hard scratch marks when trying to push it in.
Candelwax is fine. But I didn’t have any, so I took a page out of my buddy Josh’s handbook and used a bit of Superlube and placed the adapter. I still had to tap it in with a mallet, so I’m quite happy with the fit.
Hi are there any more titanium adapters available. I came across this thread after searching for a titanium adapter from Axis to Code and I am keen. Presently using the aluminium adapter from One Ocean. Would like to eliminate the corrosion issue so super keen Joined the forum as a result. So much good stuff to explore on here.
Here’s a video of the final fitment and lube:
And then, here are the bolts I chose and why:
“Titanium bolts into a titanium Code foils adapter. I used M8 x 33mm for the main bolts because, stock, Axis uses 30mm. With the extra thickness of the adapter, I will normally run 35mm. But I found these Foilite 33mm Ti bolts that split the difference nicely. In regard to the M6 bolts, I’ve run 16mm before, but they do indent the mast foot. I chose 15mm this time so they would be long enough, but not bite into the mast foot below.”
Ok, I ran into tolerance discrepancies. I’m posting this because you may experience similar things depending on the tolerances of your own foils. The bright side is, after testing with 2 foils and also measuring my Code 75+ hole spacing, I’m not too concerned. I do want to test more foils, but it’s getting late over here and I do want to ride tomorrow, so I have to go to sleep.
Rear hole on the Ti adapter is back about 1mm more than on the Stringy adapter, yet it matches my 75+ mast. Rear hole doesn’t line up as well on my 720S - I can’t get that rear screw in without attempting to force it. But I know that one is a little wonky.
I measured the Ti Adapter against the Stringy adapter to show the slight difference.
I then try with a different foil, a 980S, and while you can still see the alignment is still off a little bit, it shows that it’s still usable. The odd thing will all this is that I don’t seem to have a problem getting the screw into the hole at the back of the 720S when I use the Code mast… and I think it’s because both sets of holes, even though they measure in spacing the same as the Ti adapter, they are both slightly more forward… maybe just .25 of millimeter, allowing me to put that screw in. I’ll just file the hole on the 720s a tad bit at the back and it should be fine.
Great rundowns Danny! 
Absolutely! Thanks! I will offer my conclusion regarding the videos:
**This Ti adapter is really good. Best one yet. 9.5/10 overall.
I like the tighter fit than having to mess around adding filler shims. The inside fit is 9.5/10 compared to an Axis fuse. The inner depth of 22.8mm is a little deep compared to the Stringy’s 28.1mm. The outside fit is 9.5/10. I test fit a few of my other foils and it is probably a little too tight. I would move that back hole forward by 0.5mm for better alignment after averaging tolerance between my own foils.**
In regard to the depth, that’s easily corrected by sanding down the adapter upside down over a flat table. In terms of the tighter fit, I may do the same to the sides a little bit. It won’t take much. The fit on my Code masts is already very tight after I added more resin to the foot. This one is just a bit tigher.
really good stuff. I agree that the two M6 holes are maybe .25-.5mm off. I think my 850S is just a little different for some reason. Mine line up perfect.
I suggest that anyone who is handy, drill a tiny little recess into your axis or one-ocean mast foot. That will allow you to use 16mm long M6 screws and get all the threads engaged in the Ti adapter. What I did was use the 16mm screw with the adapter to make a little circular scratch mark on my axis mast foot, then take off the adapter and drill ~2mm deep in that spot. Will do nothing for the carbon mast foot structurally, but helps loads to engage all the adapter threads.
Adrian, designer of Axis foils, suggests using candle wax on the mast foot
@jondrums That’s not a bad idea. I mean, I went 15mm and I think I’m very happy with that. I’ll measure some more, but I think the screw reaches the bottom of the adapter. The idea is to have it go flush. But 1mm is a lot, so if the 16mm screws are barely indenting the mast foot, the 15mm screws are likely not sitting fully flush with the inside plane of the adapter.
I’m super happy with the Ti M8 33mm bolts for the actual adapter. Since I don’t plan to remove it often. I do flush freshwater as much as I can through all my gear after riding in saltwater. But with everything being Ti, and having Super Lube or TefGel in there, it should all hold up fine.
I’m still on the fence about the 15mm M6 screws being Ti. Since those will get removed every session, I almost feel I would prefer the shear-strength of stainless steel there. However, mating Ti screws with a Ti adapter sounds like the best option anyway. I just have to keep more of these 15mm screws to replace them every 6 months as they start to fatigue.