The arms and style… just because you can doesn’t mean you should. NO, NO, NO
This is so bad that I’m thinking his intention was to make a Public Service Announcement about what not to do. Or just an extreme example of how over foil froth can cloud judgement to the point that you do something that is clearly crazy/ wrong. Hope he doesn’t have a motorcycle.
That looks all too familiar … where you have truly epic potential right there for the grabbing, but getting it requires being a bit of a dick. Any surfer who lives at a crowded point break knows the deal, you put on your game face and do what you have to do to take your share, as you’re either playing the game or you’re one of the buoys. My guess is the rider is a long-time player at this break, knows where to find the pockets and work the crowd. And with that local knowledge, having surfed 1000s of these waves on every condition possible, it’s probably safer than it looks.
But that still doesn’t excuse it, as the surfers don’t know it, if they don’t feel safe, and if a freak accident happens during the weave. Ideally need to find a corner that’s safer, maybe chip in further down the line away from initial takeoff spot, get the leftovers that riders don’t catch or fall off.
Fully understand the hunger though … they are there for the taking, why should someone else get it if you you can have it, so you ignore the rules to get the wave now, pay any potential price later. Which we all agree is poor etiquette in foil world – but being realistic, reflects 99% of surfing strategy, so this extension is not surprising.
Individually, we can just try to hold the higher ethical standard; collectively we can self-police, you see your buddy acting the fool, say something.
5 Likes
Those guys are extra selfish and don’t care about anyone else…that has ruined surfing for sure. That is why I hope the foil tribe will be much more chill and so far everyone’s response here has been so cool. Aloha 
This is very well said.
I figured out a cool trick this week.
A woman paddled over fuming at me, and yes she had to paddle way over to where I am sitting because I don’t sit with the pack. Do you know how dangerous that is?, etc. etc.
Oh a whim, I just held out my hand and said “my name is Jon, nice to meet you.”
My new go-to
8 Likes
This is 100% related to my local - for sure don’t try this in HI, CA, or whatever other messed up place you ride with “real” waves and more localized geography. Our waves are slow and mushy and our beach is miles of nothing. I recognize that alof of what i’m saying here sounds like witchcraft for people with deep water energy - where named breaks are the only places its remotely rideable and the wave moves so fast pumping around for unlimited bumps is a huge miserable chore. I know yall have a different game and honestly i feel sorry for yall, good waves suck.
Most of the time when i’m out and there’s surfers out its days i’m doing shorebreak runners of the whole beach so there’s not really a way to totally avoid being near surfers on foil. If they’re on the beach i’m going past. Hopefully i’m out the back but sometimes i’m not.
If i’m rolling down near the lineup on a known surf break i’m mostly communicating to them to GO. Go go go. Don’t hold back for me, i can kick out the back and grab another, i can go around the top or around inside on the flats while your dropping in (and ride 20 yards out the front while you’re in the pocket). If i see someone holding back and looking like they’re pulling off a wave for me i’ll calmly explan that they should NEVER hold on going for a wave becasue i’m on it. Always go, always drop in, you cannot get in my way. I’m AGRESSIVELY friendly. I’ve got a big personality on foil, i say HI to everyone as i go by, i pump a loop back to chat with people i know while i go by. On my hitch hike back up to the put in surfers i passed on my run stop to GIVE ME A RIDE back to my lauch. Honestly i’m agressively friendly with everyone but i can see this not working if there were 10 of me…
For 99% of surfers its about territory and wave count and about the perception that your “stealing” a wave. The “worries” about safety is just a tool they’re using to achieve something territory and wave count related. The surfers saw that pic above and didn’t feel sorry for the surfer - they were excited and only saw a tool for achieving some territory BS. If the shortboarders thought they could do it to longboarders they would. Jesus i’ve heard shortboarders talk about foiling positively - because its someone that can treat the logs the way they treat the shortboards.
If your good enough to be never ever interupting the surfers catching a wave AND communicating it clearly and politely while casually conversing with surfers you know while foiling through a lineup on your way past the horrizon you can pretty much do whatever you want. It has to be clear that your not eating even a morsel off their plate, so clear that by bitching they’d be inviting ridicule, and feel free to talk to me about it, i’ll talk politely while pumping around continuing to dominate the situation and you will look like a dweeb. I don’t know really it hassn’t come up everyone is pretty stoked it seems like because its SUPER CLEAR I’M NOT EATING OFF THEIR PLATE. I’m not part of their stupid f-d up pecking order so they’re not stressed about it.
I mean they can’t really bitch at you if your put in spot is one horrizon up the beach and your take out spot is one horrizon down but you have to be GOOD. If you fall at that break your DONE. You have to be dominating every aspect of the situation with your level of controll. You need to be doing it while maintaining a level of effort that allows casual conversation while doing it. If you see a buddy you should be able to pump a few circles around while you casually conversate. I’ve been surf foiling for 6 years now and I’ve had negative interactions but they were all 3+ years in the past - when i didn’t have the control i have now - even though i’m around alot more surfers now.
If you EVER call a surfer off a wave get f*****
If you EVER make a mistake that puts you in a surfer’s way get f*****
If you don’t have the cool to communicate clearly get f*****
If your not local get with someone who is or get f*****
…And anyone with a motor can get f*****…
4 Likes
This has been my experiance as well.
I actually sit on the inside and take the small ones back and forth…by the pier…below the back.
Im not too big on communication but i have made a few conversations. I should do more, but when i do have conversations im super friendly. also listening to music
Every ONCE in a while ive been on the outside sets but i kick off or swing super wide.
I’ve gotten comments at first - its dangerous, ect. Then when they see me later walking or something theyre like dude you rip…
Or it was soo fun too watch…lots of comments from just normal people.
I honestly cant belive that people surf these waves im on. There are LEGIT surfers and waves, but most are soo unsatisfying tbh.
Ive only had one issue with this guy who was worried about his wave count…but he was kinda threatening. This was at Seaside, in Sandiego south of carlsbad. I had to leave anyway because the parking police came and i didnt want to get a ticket…when i got out i watched him catching all the waves, ect. Never saw him again though