Haven’t been on a regular board in over 2 years. 98% of the time i’m out by myself having a blast on a foil. I look to paddle in first if conditions allow for it, mostly on foildrive, really works where I am. I take a bicycle to the beach with a trailer, can also walk. Just picked up a parawing for upwind downwind in the consistent side on wind conditions. (have been kite foiling in these conditions) I really can’t see using a surfboard again. It would take uncrowded barreling conditions to get back on a surfboard. Just never see that happening.
When the foil drivers start up.
Session 1 Yesterday:
I paddled prone out yesterday morning in really good conditions at my usual spot. That said, it was about chest to head high and somewhat steep and pitchy. I prefer a little less size. When it gets to head high, I start getting really picky with waves and only attempt to take off on the ones that have the best shape to improve my odds of making the drop. As the tide came in, it got softer and a little easier to deal with even with the extra size. I had a good session. I was happy with my wave count and links.
Session 2 Yesterday:
I then paddled out that afternoon. At that point it was way more pitchy and steep. About the same size and it would jack up on take off… No matter how hard I paddled I was always at the top of the wave before a steep drop. I called it within 45 minutes and left without a single wave. If I had brought a surfboard I would have had a fun session.