I’ve been foiling for a few years now, and getting into DW SUP now but I have basically zero paddle background which is making it hard to make sense of paddles.
Getting lots of conflicting information. Some say just go basic paddle like Chinook or QB Kanaha. Others say why not put that money towards a foil specific paddle. Is it worth the money or can’t hardly tell the difference? If basic is fine what’s best?
There’s also a huge range for what size is determined as S-M-L etc. like one brands large is another’s small — even for foil specific paddles. Does comparing across brands make sense or is it not apples-to-apples because shapes are different?
Some say adjustable some say fixed. Some say cut 3” above head, some say head high.
Lots of variation on blade angle. Can’t pick up a pattern on what would be optimal.
More and more dw sup foil specific options too
KT paddle $532
Black project Foilx $550
QB quickblade stingray $600
Starboard foil blade $500ish?
Axis power blade carbon $450
Code paddle blade $380
Missing more I’m sure
Some of these have zero reviews/opinions/etc like the axis paddle. Any perspectives or comparisons? Any of the new stuff noteworthy?
I’m 78kg. I sense is that I want it to be durable, light, and powerful enough — but want to keep my shoulders happy so probably not huge like ono Ava? Don’t want to spend more than I have to. Fine investing time into proper technique and faster cadence. What makes the most sense?
Until you learn to paddle you will be kind of struggling to not break/damage the paddle. And honestly the technique is far more important the paddle. Think of paddle size like traction, big blade will give you more traction, which can help you gain speed quicker when you have bad technique, but this comes at the cost of maybe shoulder injures etc. Smaller paddle means better technique demanded because you will need to take more strokes, but you can do those strokes easier as it smaller. I started with a the cheapest large paddle i found used, then destroyed the thing, then bought a code paddle which I love.
A good point someone mentioned: SUP requires gradually building up the paddling muscles bit by bit. so smaller in the beginning may be a good call to save yourself from injuries.
I’m 80kg, hurt my back with the Ono Ava 105, imo unnecessary going more than 90sqin at your weight. code paddle was fine I enjoy the little extra from the BP foil x M. Helps you balance in the bumps a little bit. Really any paddle you’ll be fine, I’ve used a $150 paddle held together with tape and it honestly felt great. just don’t cut it too short. I had a paddle mid forehead on a recommendation and paddling up was a nightmare, I couldn’t get the forward reach or put sufficient power down while maintaining good form. 1-2in overhead minimum for learning if you go fixed. Like everyone says you can always cut it smaller. I’m at 1” overhead my next paddle will be 2” overhead as an experiment. The length will give you good forward catch angle and and you won’t struggle to pump paddle. Pick one u like and stick with it don’t think too hard
I did the same. Started and then snapped a cheap paddle. Then got a Code paddle and it’s great, although I lengthened the shaft which meant I ran over the paddle a bunch of times with my foil.
My advice is start with a cheaper one like Smik (especially at 78kgs and I’m guessing under 6’ at that weight) and then upgrade when you’re up on foil.
For taller, heavier guys it may be necessary to go straight to the full carbon paddle, but not if you’re lighter.
If you’re a strong paddler, adjustable paddles don’t work at they point load at the sleeve and will snap in your hands.
Some people say more surface area is good, but I agree with James Casey who says the blade style (lower surface area) is better as cadence is more important than pure power output. Also gentler on the top shoulder.
Pretty much the same experience here. Cracked several paddle blades while learning from hitting the foil. All were repairable but thankfully they weren’t high dollar paddles anyway. I’ve settled on 2" below my height and this paddle which is often found for $250 online;
It’s a surf SUP paddle with a tough blade and softer shaft, available in several blade sizes. No problems now.
I live and DW in the Gorge so I see lots of different paddles being used. Big blade, small blade, high tech, and cheap. I’ve come to the conclusion that the paddle matters a lots less than technique. I’m 78 kg and 5-11 (71"). Been paddling whitewater kayaks for 30 years and am pretty picky about kayak paddles and I have some shoulder issues. For DW, you use the paddle to brace and get on foil so, to me, the overall fit, feel, and finish of the paddle matter less. My first DW paddle was a used Starboard that was 73" and cost me $50. Then I upgraded to a new Werner Rip Stick 89sqcm but I cut it to 72" and I hated the length and sold it. My current paddle is a QuickBlade V-Drive 91sqcm that is 73.75" and I love it. I bought it used for $200. For my shoulders, I like the 90ish sqcm blade and a slightly flexy shaft.
The Ono Ava 105 is a big boy paddle and the Stingray has not lasted the initial hype- That paddle is made for board strikes. The Code paddle is great for the money and has a really nice catch. I was chatting with a beginner yesterday that had a Axis paddle and it felt ok. I’m curious about the new KT paddle. In summary, don’t blow a bunch of cash on your first paddle- you will hit the foil, the board, and anything else in your vicinity when learning. Good luck and have fun with the learning process!
Can someone explain why the paddle length should be your height or less? I’m currently learning with an adjustable and it feels good a couple inches over my height. I suppose once I’m foiling I’ll need the length even higher not shorter.
Proper starting technique involves bending at the knees and waist, leaning forward, so you can spring upward with each stroke. You are essentially lifting the entirety of your weight off the water with the blade. Keeping the elbow of your top arm as low as possible will help prevent shoulder injury also. The longer the shaft, the more likely you’ll tear your rotater cuff.