Intro Prone Foil Board

I think I had made that suggestion because fast foils from 2 years ago stalled very easily. Today that is not the case, so there is maybe less validity from that suggestion, but I think it is still worth considering:

It’s hard to explain without you having an understanding of what “good” surfing is actually doing. It is primarily staying in the critical pocket of the wave, and you do this by doing cutbacks so that you don’t outrun the wave. The wave has the most energy right where it breaks, so staying near the breaking part of the wave gives you the most energy, which you can burn by doing turns. So good surfing is gathering and burning speed. Watch some videos of point break surfing, especially a mix of good and bad surfers, and you’ll see the best surfers stay right in the pocket.

Foils are very fast, and cannot turn tightly, so the challenge is burning off the speed that we have. When foiling, you have too much speed.

Watch this clip of Mike Pedigo. Watch how before his bottom turn he will always go straight for a while, and sometimes even turn away from the direction of the wave. This is to slow down and burn speed. If he just went “down the line” (your red arrow), he’d gain too much speed, so he literally never does!

So when it comes to picking a foil:

If you are on a fast foil, you will not burn speed quickly enough, and so you not be able to surf in the pocket. Too much glide is bad for turns, as you never slow down.

This will depend on the waves, and your skill, but matching the speed of the foil with the speed of the waves is basically what I meant in my prior post.

Erik speaks about this with Zane in latest podcast. Slower foil means you can stay rolling turns from rail to rail without running ahead of the pocket of the wave. Google “surfing in the pocket” for an idea. Good surfing is surfing vertically, and in the pocket. Zane does this well, as does Mike. It’s insanely difficult on a foil, and impossible on a fast foil.

This is probably counterintuitive, but the same is true with surfing. The best surfers have very slow surfboards designed for burning speed. Beginners have flat surfboards designed to go fast. I think (not certain), that slower foils are easier to turn, generally easier to pump, and foils are fast enough on average to go anywhere, so learning to turn them is the most useful skill.

Also worth noting, you need very little energy to keep a foil going example

So I suggest a slower foil as it can help you get into sync with the speed of a wave.

This is more practical, but I don’t think is the essence of what surf foil designers and the collective mind is aiming for. But if this is what you like doing then by all means!

If the wave is closing out (breaking all at once) then it isn’t a good wave for turns.

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