TooMuchEpoxy's permanent bond it all together technique

TooMuchEpoxy wrote:

I permanently bond my cedrus to the plate. 5200 with the bolts to keep them from backing out and filling all gaps. I bond everything, mast to fuse, fuse to wing. Epoxy, 5200. I never disassemble because I can’t and all my gear feels like it’s made of stone and it’s awesome

I’m sure I’m’ not the only one who needs to know more about this! Are you using 3m 5200 on the bolt threads? 5200 on the wing/fuse junctions or Epoxy. What kind of epoxy?

Is it possible to dissemble with heat or solvents but without destruction?

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5200 on stainless bolt threads is the de-facto instal method for all hardware in the marine industry. On a yacht you won’t find a bolt without it. I also have a pretty good feel for pushing bolts right up to the point where they strip so it’s all torqued HARD. And I never reuse mast bolts after removal. 5200 is tenacious stuff but the removal product called ANTIBOND works wonders.

I wouldn’t do 5200 on a wing fuse socket connection just because that elasticity might be an issue at removal. I use some thickened epoxy there, usually the 2 part total fair fairing compound which is just nice to work with but I also just use microfiber filler or whatever. I also fair in little gaps and I make the tail all hydrodynamic where it meets the fuse etc.

I’ve taken to spraying some release agent on the female part of connections to make disassembly easier. Id rather epoxy be stuck to the male side so it’s easy to get off. I also find it helps to not have the epoxy on the tip tip of the socket connection. Having some air in there means you don’t have to fight “suction” at removal.

For breaking things apart for sale or changes I have a come along and a 4x4 to pull stuff apart. You have to load up the trailing edge of the front wing which is scary but they’re robust. The air bubble and release agent have had a great success rate. No heat or solvents required.

I don’t have any exp with mast fuse connections like uni or lift but I say go for it if there’s any movement. Try to keep the gap at the bottom(coat the sides) and use the release agent on the female part.


Thank you!

A mast top plate with even just a little play is so dissatisfying. Ive gone to town with an impact driver on the top connection of my alu mast but still it will come loose. 5200 is my next step.

Can you get the residue out of a screw hole with anti bond?

The 5200 tends to stay in the screw hole some which I think is fine. I wouldn’t use anti bond in there since it might mess with the next round of 5200(not being able to remove the anti bond). 5200 isn’t aggressive enough to interfere with the next screw going in.

Another IMPORTANT point I forgot is to wear gloves and blue tape the shit out of everywhere the 5200 doesn’t go.

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Awesome - Thank you!