Just to make it clear, this video below is what I’m talking about. This is the way to progress with FD. Take off on unbroken clean waves, and the two critical steps:
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keep your front hand on the nose of the board while you standup, this keeps the board trim correct and the nose down while you are still on motor power
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when you popup, do it deliberately in a clean pop, to clear the motor from the water, this means you never have your feet forward, you are straight into riding mode
Step one is more important, as what you are trying to do is place your feet really far back, in the appropriate motor-free riding position. This is about 2-3" back from where you’d be standing if you were in power mode. The hand on the nose keeps the trim while allowing you to plant your feet really far back.
Josh does the above steps, and even still moves his feet back an inch when he stands up.
This is all probably easier if you can already prone as you have some sense of timing.
