I’m a beginner using Foil Drive. I’m riding the AFS UHM 80, the Silk 1050 and the 152 tail. I am doing fairly well on the 1050 in waste high surf. Recently I did a mile long shore runner. Before I go out and buy new front wings, I thought I’d mess around with different tails. I hear the 132 loosens up the 1050, which would be good in the surf. The HA tails are said to increase glide and improve pump on the Silks. What size HA tail for the 1050 Silk, if downwinding is the goal? Please, share your thoughts and experience on tails to pair with the Silk 1050.
Before even buying a stabilizer, try shimming the mast -1 degree (thick end at the back) it’ll increase the pump and glide of your existing set up.
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I’ve heard people say they rarely shim their AFS. That’s not to say that it can’t be done. Would adjusting my mast position be a good place to start, even before shimming? I tried a few different positions before settling on 2.5 cm up from the back. Further forward than that and I had to stomp on the nose to keep it down when throttling the Foil Drive.
Basically, I’m looking to increase the glide of the Silk. Once I get on a wave I want to not use the Foil Drive anymore. Currently, when I let off the trigger, I descend and eventually my board is on the water, at which point I throttle up. There’s a good chance I’m looking to mast position, shimming, new wings, or stabs, to fix what is really a deficit in skill.
I have not found moving the mast to help. I had never connected a wave prone and put -1 on and the second wave did a 5 for 1….
Some call it skill but in my experience it’s a personal preference based on physical riding style and sports history. Same conditions, same board, same foil I’ve seen someone prefer +1 and someone else prefer -1.
But what you’re describing you want means you want -1
Alright then, I’m going to try the -1 shim. You said, “thick end at the back.” You might’ve seen this coming. Where does one get a -1 shim?
If a -1 shift increases efficiency, what does it do to maneuverability? I assume that there is some give when we take.
Assuming you’re in Hawaii, wet feet has them or can get them. if not pm me. I have some or if you have access to a 3D printer I can send you the file.
It’s a different feel and riding style but it doesn’t alter the foil so it doesn’t affect maneuverability technically. But it could affect your riding style in a way that you don’t feel as maneuverable. I feel like what gets left out of a lot of conversations is that we’re all different so we shouldn’t all like the same tuning or the same foil. I like negative shim to help me pump efficiently and I don’t think I give up maneuverability but you may feel differently.
That being said if I’m towing I’ll shim positively to feel more comfortable at higher speeds same goes for winging.
It just occurred to me but it could be thought of like seat post height on a mountain bike. If pedalling efficiency is your priority a high seat post is better but if you’re bombing downhill a low seat post feels better however the bike is still the same.
Start with negative shim. It will improve glide and reduce front foot pressure at speed. Next option is get the HA38 tail. All this said, you simply need more time on foil depowered training your eye to see the power source and ride in the right place. Stay high on the swell and ride diagonal. Common beginner issue is to ride perpendicular dropping into the trough and losing the power source. If yo do consider a new front wing rather than getting the S850 go with the Enduro 700 or 900. These will give you much more glide but will actually make it more important to ride the swell correctly. Happy Driving!
Yes, your assumption was correct. I am in Hawaii. I’ll reach out to Wet Feet, thanks. I wanted to tell you that I like the seat post analogy. I mountain bike, so now I have a mental representation of the role of shimming. Your point that we’re all different is especially helpful to a beginner. Of course, I’ll still want to gain first hand experience in order to judge what works best for me, but at least it’ll help me avoid getting dogmatic about the so-called right way to do something.
What about an Enduro 1100 or 1300 to replace or supplement the Silk 1050? I think you’re right about my needing more time on foil de-powered. I’ll have to exercise self-discipline and pump rather than squeeze the trigger. I’m not sure I’m ready to take the training wheels off altogether.
Which of course gives me an idea that belongs on the no-such-thing-as-a-ridiculous-idea thread. Let’s make a lever operated tail shim mechanism to upshift/downshift tail angle
when dropper posts came out, it was like a revelation. I used to love my “quick-release” seatpost clamp so I could easily change seat position at the top of a climb. When it became lever operated without getting off the bike - amazing! The biggest mountain bike invention of the decade.
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I think there was a small brand called Indy foil (not Indiana) that had this capability in their system a few years ago. Always thought it was a cool idea. I can’t find anything about them anymore so either they are gone or else I’m mistaking the name.
The 1100 is obviously a bigger wing than the 1050 (I happen to own both wings) - I suggested smaller Enduros because you are foil driving so was assuming you don’t necessarily need the low end. But that said, the 1100 is going to give you much more glide than the 1050 and lower stall speed- which will help overcome the user error of putting yourself in the non-optimal parts of the swell i.e. the dreaded trough. So yes, I like that idea for your next wing. Use the 1100 for wind swell days or small ground swell, then go to the 1050 when you get in to any swell with some power/speed. If you are not ripping turns yet, I bet you will like the 1100 much better for almost any condition.
How will the Enduro 1100 perform downwind? What are your thoughts on the fuselage, long or short? Thanks