How are people getting more low end out of a setup without going to a larger front wing?
Are you changing tail size, fuse, track position?
I much prefer riding a front wing under 1050mm span but wanting to optimize the low end pump and glide so can use in light downwind conditions.
Ofcourse skill level comes into it as well but looking for any ideas to get the most out of a setup as well.
Cheers
You’ll need to tell us the brand for better suggestions.
Buy code.
Running Axis ART at the moment.
But been trying some lift gear, 150HAX and 120HA and find it suits what I want much better.
I came from axis art then to the code. The code is very similar to the arts, just better in every way, especially the low end for user friendly pumping.
I find a +0.25deg or +0.5 deg baseplate shim (positive, ie thick end at the back) helps the low end sensitivity, without killing the glide.
You can also try a tail shim, not more than +0.25 otherwise you kill the glide for the sake of low end lift and end off needing to pump much more.
Skinny tails improve things on the whole, I like the 45 for general purposes.
Possibly the most important thing is technique. With the ART pro you can get them going very slow in a high angle of attack, and it just takes some finesse to soft pump them out of that slow mode. Work on just riding in that dead slow mode is very useful.
I don’t know about ART for slow, but the ART pro 1121 and 1201 have better low end once all above is applied.
I hope Axis improve this for their overdue foil because it is a weak spot
In general terms - you can play with:
Hope this helps.
If you are on ART or ARTPRO, a size smaller on the CODE will delight you. Basically all the same riding characteristics, but a lot more low end. People probably think there are tradeoffs, but I couldn’t find any, code is just better in every way. 899 or 1051 compare directly to 850R. Feel almost identical at speed except the code has night and day more low end.
I haven’t ridden the ARTPROs
but the original ARTs are horrible and completely outdated, any modern foil will be significantly better in all respects
Base plate shims will not change foil performance once on foil.
For downwind your path forward is not so clear and depends on your local conditions dramatically. In slow lake and bay bumps pairing the speed of the bumps with the speed of an efficient foil will give the best return. The stab size can slow you down but it doesn’t really give you more lift at the same speed just better behaviour maybe.
You will find that you won’t notice the span being too large if it is an efficient foil and paired well for your particular bumps.
Care to elaborate. My experience is that it does change the feel which is about the same thing from a riders perspective. ie how a bike fit improves a cyclists performance, it’s about ergonomics
Changing how a foil feels does not change the foil performance. It may as you suggest change your bodies performance. Maybe you can take some pressure of one leg or the other with a base plate shim but really you are just compensating for something. The thread was about improving low end and shimming the base plate wont help.
yes pedantically it doesn’t change the hydrodynamics of the foil itself
but this thread is about optimising the low end pump which a shim absolutely helps, I have gone between various shims, and changing nothing else it makes it easier, not just me either:
Shims: 0° (1) front wing / -0,5° (1,5) Stabilizer / 1,5° under the top plate (to have the nose lower in flight)
Negative tail shim for less lift and mast forward to get the lift back is going to increase efficiency however is going to make for a less stable and more twitchy. Also is going to have more tendency to nosedive(back foot pressure) at speed.
Yes compensating for board design. He decided the board rose to nose up so employed a base plate shim. He looks like the shim has only made the deck perpendicular to the foil. Scary that starboard didn’t just make the tracks parallel to the deck so no shim required.