I picked up a used 1095 and am amazed at how loose it fits on the fuse. With my 1210 I have a strip of electric tape to make it snug. I had to add a couple more small strips in precise spots for the 1095 to fit. It took a lot of trial and error to find where I needed to put them and now with the added bulk of the additional tape, the 1210 won’t slide on anymore.
The dilemma I’m having is that every time I want to switch wings I need to strip the tape off completely and reapply for the specific wing and since the 1095 is so finicky it’s a total pain in the ass.
Is there some kind of material (maybe a putty) I can add to the inside of the 1095 connection that will mold to fit the shape of the fuse?
Any other suggestions?
I cut up an aluminum can and made a shim to wrap the fuselage head. That made things pretty snug and it was reusable. Another solution is to add some thickened epoxy into the front wing fuse attachment, with release putty on the fuse. Once it dries, you remove the fuse and the negative relief is a tight connection. Dave Kalama has a good Youtube video showing how to do it with a GoFoil setup.
This is why I (and others) moved on from Takuma though. It is sloppy which leads to loose connections and bolts shearing.
I had the same issues along with everyone else so i just bought a used fuselage and made them a 1 piece with epoxy. I don’t travel and its nice to have a really solid connection.
I really like the surfy feeling of the 1210. But coming from a Lift 170HA it feels very very slow. I wanted to try the 1095 to see how it compares. Have you ridden both? What are your thoughts on the two?
I’ll be the counterpoint here (perspective skewed to winging). I loved the 1095 other than the bad engineering. I always felt that the 1210 was too slow and lifty for me. 1095 was faster, good progressive lift, and overall a great range. Breach recovery was equally excellent between the two wings. Aside from the sloppy connections, broken bolts, etc… (which are a dealbreaker), it was one of my all-time favorite wings. Different strokes.
My new strategy with the original connection is foil tape only on the SIDES ADJACENT TO THE SURFACE WITH THE BOLT HOLES. If shimmed enough, then the bolt surface doesn’t touch the the wing side, so those two shimmed surfaces get locked in. I got tape with one fuse that was shaped for that, and only after all the talk about mast fuse connections that do the same thing I realized what was meant to happen. Makes me think an instagram psa might have avoided a design change and subsequent alienation. edit: with this design a loose connection until bolted is ideal actually.
I’m definitely not venting tips or hitting white water. But the slow stall speed and the overall carvy-ness of the 1210 really are so much fun when I’m in the mood for it. I only rode the Lift 170 with the stock glide tails, but the 1210 feels much looser and wanting to carve and very forgiving vs the Lift feeling like it is locked in and flying fast (sometimes too much) and being really pitch sensitive.
I’ll try it on the sides Only. Right now I have it on all the flat surfaces.
I was using foil tape, but the trial and error and different shim thicknesses between the two wings made me crazy and I switched to electrical tape because it was much easier to take off/put on.
Yeah I think foil tape will be better, as it doesn’t compress like other tape, but you probably will need a few layers. Check it as it slides in to ensure there is a gap.
Tested it and got 7mm which is the same as new takuma which is a fairly proper flat m8 joint. This measurement (mostly I’m sure) includes the twist in the aluminum from the mast to the connection fyi.
With one layer of foil tape per side it was already snug, but perhaps snug in the right way.
I just used regular foil wrapped around the fuse. When I take off the wings, the foil stays inside the wings if I remove the wing carefully. I’ve done this to each of my front wings and each is a little different so they all work nice and snug with my fuse now.
I re-read the original post, and I’ll point out that I shim/foil tape the fuse for the tightest foil, then foil tape the looser foils on the inside of the foil to make them match.
Hey mate don’t stuff around with tape you need to put an epoxy sleeve inside the wing connection. Mike pedigo did a video on it a few years ago.
Basically sand inside of wing
Sand fuse lightly if needed (might have tape goo all over it)
Tape up areas where you want to keep clean
I like to put a thin 1-2 mm strip of tape in the little indented lip right where the mast connection starts so it is flat for epoxy to release from
Wax in first 2 screw holes top and bottom and flattened off with razor. Leave last screw hole
5 or so coats of mould release wax on fuse
Apply epoxy about maybe 1cm and maybe 1mm thick up near top of connection not down the bottom on thin end on all surfaces. Can spread out evenly. Don’t use more for first try migjt get stuck
Put on wing carefully and do up last screw to make sure it’s straight. Tighten.
Clean up epoxy
I only let it set for about 4 hours then I take it off. Usually gotta bash it with a mallet
